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AmberT
AmberTL2Bumper2d ago

Ported box for SDR 12, slot vs aero?

Stuck between building a 2.2 cubic foot box tuned to 33hz with a 35 square inch slot port or just doing a 6 inch flared aeroport at the same tuning for my Skar SDR 12. Im pushing it with the RP1200 at 1 ohm and the current prefab is just choking it out at higher volumes. The slot port materials are costing me about 40 bucks at Home Depot while the precision port kit is like 75 online. Which one handles the port noise better for daily driving? Im worried the slot port will be a pain to calculate right for the displacement.

Replies (2)

BassHeadJay
BassHeadJayL4Pro2d ago

go with the aero for lower port noise hands down. back when i was running my 4 sundown 15s in a wall the slot port i first built whistled like a tea kettle at high excursion until i swapped to 8 inch precision ports. those flaring transitions kill the turbulence that you get on square corners. if you build the slot port you have to round over the internal edges with a router or it will chuff like crazy on those sdr excursions. for your build tonight trace your port hole on the baffle using a compass then cut it slightly undersized so you can sand the opening for a tight friction fit with the aeroport. use a bead of rtv silicone on the flange before you screw it down to seal it air tight. then just measure the internal length of that pipe carefully to match your 33hz tuning goal before you mount it permanently.

TonyB
TonyBL3Slapper1d ago

that aero port is gonna be way easier to tune once you have it inside the box. since you are at 1200 watts on that sdr just make sure the total length accounts for the port displacement itself which is something people always forget. calculate your volume including the port volume and then add that to your box specs so you dont end up in the high 20s for tuning. i had to mess with this on my alpine setup and found that using pvc primer on the joints makes for a way cleaner look than raw plastic. honestly if you want to avoid port noise for good just check the air velocity calculation on your tuning tool and try to keep it under 100 fps. if you get that flared end sanded smooth you wont even hear it work, just the bass. plus its a whole lot easier than trying to sand down the inside of a slot port once the top baffle is glued on. you definitely dont want to spend your weekend inside a box with sandpaper.

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