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Dialing in your system with AAMPED Labs
We built these tools to get tracks hitting harder and louder, letting you dial in masters perfectly matched to your specific box tune. Whether you need to master a track for a 32 Hz build or run a clean slowed version to move some serious air, the output keeps things tight without the usual distortion. What box tune or setup are you currently running?
Anyone still messing with the old MTX 9500s?
Saw a few guys in the discord claiming these new budget subs outperform the original MTX 9500 12s and frankly that is just dead wrong. I still have a pair of the 9500s from back in the day and the excursion and motor force on those older beasts beats most of the modern stamped basket stuff people are hyping up now. Sure, they need a ton of airspace to really wake up, but they handle power like nothing else from that era. Right now I am rocking a single RE Audio SXT 15 on a PR1000 in my daily, but I am seriously debating pulling the old 9500s out of storage to see if I can get them hitting like they used to in a proper ported enclosure. My current setup: RE Audio SXT 15, PR1000 amp, 0 gauge run to a XS Power D3100. Has anyone actually put the 9500s up against modern mid-tier subs on a scope and seen better results, or are people just blinded by shiny new carbon fiber cones?
Ngl this app rebass sucks
Somebody very transparent I'm not trying to sound like a hater and I like the creativity of this app but there is no way in hell I would pay for this because when I rebase music I play all my keys by hand there is little to no clicking involved on little buttons just to make everything do something on his own and I'm not taking the lazy route by just clicking on a couple days and saying hey I did this no I want to put time into a song and making it sound good versus just clicking on the fucking app everybody I have the own opinion about it
trunk vs cabin firing for 2x NVX NSW 12s in a sedan
Trying to squeeze every bit of output out of this trunk build for some weekend competitions. Currently packin 2x NVX NSW 124s on a VAD1000 and it slaps for a daily setup, but I want to get that meter number up. Right now I got them ported and facin the rear, but I heard some guys swear by cabin firing through the rear deck. Has anyone actually seen a gain doing that in a sedan? I'm worried about cancelation if I seal it off against the seat vs keepin the air space open. Any of yall tried flipping these into the cabin with a proper baffle and noticed a difference on the termlab? Trying to see if it is worth the extra wood work or if I should just focus on better deadening behind the box.
anyone remember the old school kicker solobaric s10d round subs?
back in 04 i had a pair of those original round solobarics in a sealed glass box behind the seats of a little ranger. they just had this punch that the modern stuff like my current comprt 10 misses out on. i swear they sounded like they were hitting way harder on 300 watts than half the stuff people try to tune to 30hz these days. maybe its just nostalgia talking but even with the cx300 pushing this shallow 10 rn it just lacks that raw punch. was it just the high qts or the old school suspension that made them feel so much tighter? anyone else still got those old round ones sitting in a closet or is it time for me to just accept that sub tech has actually moved on?
Box rise is killing my burp numbers on the 4 VXF 15s
Hit a wall trying to get my box rise under control for the next MECA show. Currently rockin 4 VXF 15s in a common chamber box tuned to 38hz, fed by 2 RP2000s strapped. On the meter, I am seein way higher impedance than I calculated, and the output is fallin off hard after 45hz. When I clamped it, the amps are barely seein half the rated power because of the rise. Has anyone had luck with a specific port ratio for these VXFs to keep the rise down during burps? Should I try shrinkin the total volume a bit to force more pressure even if it kills the bandwidth?
Voltage dropping to 11.8v at the T1500bdCP terminal
My clamp meter shows 11.8v at the amp input when I hit the heavy lows on my T1500bdCP powering those dual T1 12s in my F-150. Everything was fine until last week when the amp started cutting out during sustained 30hz notes. I checked the Big 3 and it is all 1/0 ofc, but I noticed a faint alternator whine creeping into the mids now too. Could a dying ground strap be causing both the voltage dip and the whine, or is the alternator finally giving up the ghost under load? I am running a stock 200a alt with an XS Power D3400 in the rear. Any ideas where to start before I buy a new HO alt?
voltage tanking on the sxt 15 at full tilt
dash lights are dimming way too much when the bass hits on my sxt 15. pr1000 is pulling hard and i am seeing 11.8v at the terminals during burps. currently have stock alternator and one agm in the back on 1/0 ofc wiring. is it time for a high output alt or should i swap that agm for a lithium bank first? budget is tight so i dont wanna waste cash if the stock alt just cant keep up.
Ported box for SDR 12, slot vs aero?
Stuck between building a 2.2 cubic foot box tuned to 33hz with a 35 square inch slot port or just doing a 6 inch flared aeroport at the same tuning for my Skar SDR 12. Im pushing it with the RP1200 at 1 ohm and the current prefab is just choking it out at higher volumes. The slot port materials are costing me about 40 bucks at Home Depot while the precision port kit is like 75 online. Which one handles the port noise better for daily driving? Im worried the slot port will be a pain to calculate right for the displacement.
the hype for those new carbon fiber cones is mostly marketing bs
seeing way too many people act like these new lightweight composite cones are the only way to get efficiency nowadays. honestly think people forget how much air old school heavy paper cones can move when you put some actual power behind them. i still have my original re audio sxt 15 that hits lows my buddy's fancy new carbon 12 struggles to even touch in the same enclosure volume. my current setup for reference: re audio sxt 15 pr1000 amp 4awg ofc wiring sealed box tuned low it feels like everyone is obsessing over cone weight and ignoring motor force and excursion capability. maybe i am just stuck in my ways but does anyone else here think these new ultra light drivers sound thin compared to the older heavy hitting stuff from the mid 2000s?
Roof flex on the tahoe is getting too real, structural support ideas?
The rear ceiling metal is starting to show stress fractures around the hatch hinges after adding more deadener. I am pushing 6 CT Sounds Strato 8s off 3 T1500 amps and the sheer force is doing a number on the sheet metal. I already have two layers of 80mil butyl on the roof but it is not enough to stop the oil canning effect at full tilt. Has anyone tried adding custom steel bracing or square tubing to the interior roof skin without ruining the headliner? I want to keep it looking daily driver clean if possible.
Dialing in your build with AAMPED Labs
We run our own tracks through the platform because it puts out a master that hits harder and stays clean even when you are pushing for max volume. It is built to sync with your specific box tune, like mastering a track perfectly for a 32 Hz setup or cleaning up a slowed and reverb edit. What tune or box alignment are you currently running in your daily driver?