those old S10Ds had crazy stiff motor force and a thick paper cone that loved to dance in those small sealed boxes. your shallow 10 lacks the mechanical advantage because the motor is compromised for depth and the cone is way lighter so it just flutters instead of pushing. you got two clear paths here. one is finding an old school high-BL 10 inch sub with a deep basket and heavy cone to recreate that sealed pressure. the trade-off is finding one in good shape and giving up trunk space for a proper enclosure. two is moving to a ported build with a modern high-excursion driver tuned around 35hz. you get way more output and that punchy feel but you have to live with a bigger box footprint. i would stick with the sealed route since you like that tight, snappy kick. grab a sub with a higher EBP rating to keep it sealed-friendly and focus on bracing that enclosure so it does not flex under the pressure. that is the only way to get that old school chest impact back without changing your whole aesthetic.
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anyone remember the old school kicker solobaric s10d round subs?
back in 04 i had a pair of those original round solobarics in a sealed glass box behind the seats of a little ranger. they just had this punch that the modern stuff like my current comprt 10 misses out on. i swear they sounded like they were hitting way harder on 300 watts than half the stuff people try to tune to 30hz these days. maybe its just nostalgia talking but even with the cx300 pushing this shallow 10 rn it just lacks that raw punch. was it just the high qts or the old school suspension that made them feel so much tighter? anyone else still got those old round ones sitting in a closet or is it time for me to just accept that sub tech has actually moved on?
Replies (3)
Replying to GroundPoundG
1) Ditch the shallow mount and pick up a Sundown SA-10 v.2. It has the motor depth and excursion you are missing to get that hard transient hit back. 2) Check your amp settings because a CX300 is barely waking up the voice coil on a real sub. I run my two Alpine Type-R 12s on a solid MRV-M1200 and the difference in authority is massive. 3) Seal the box edges with wood glue and silicone to handle the higher internal pressure. If you want that chest impact, you need a sub that can actually displace volume, not just flutter.
whats the exact internal volume of that glass box in cubic feet. your issue isnt tech progression its likely mismatching that shallow mount to a small enclosure designed for a traditional motor structure. my skar sdr 12 uses a much larger motor than those slim units and the difference in transient response is night and day. those round kickers had high excursion capability relative to their era which created that chest slap. shallow 10s usually have very limited xmax and high f3 points so they cant push the air required for that mid bass punch. if that box is under 0.6 cubes you are strangling the performance of almost any sub. try stuffing that box with polyfill to trick the sub into seeing more volume which helps lower the resonant peak. if that doesnt bring the punch back the sub just lacks the motor strength to handle the pressure and you need to look at a traditional depth 10 with a heavier cone mass.
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